October 20, 2010
As soon as I pulled out my MacBook, Kanul, who was sitting next to me, asked how much I paid for it. This happens all the time. He then asked if he could "handle" it! And like everyone I meet, they wanted to know where I was from, what I do, how long I'm traveling and why I'm traveling alone.
They were joshing each other mercilessly. It was fun to see the dynamic among them. Their high energy was contagious. They happily agreed to have their photo taken and had no problem at all about me posting it on my blog!
Had another stunningly delectable thali for lunch today, this time prepared by Hema, Jagdish and Pushpa’s daughter-in-law. I don’t think I’d find a more superbly prepared and flavorful meal in a five-star restaurant! The food here is so wonderful and the family's delight in my delight makes it difficult to even consider moving on.
Again was curious about the spices used. Hema immediately brought out her masala spice tray with little stainless cups filled with chili, cumin, coriander, tumeric, mustard seed, fennel, anise and fenugreek. She used all these spices in various combinations for today’s thali that included paneer (Indian cheese) with a tomato sauce, potato with a small dried bean that I did not recognize, fenugreek that was boiled and ground into a paste and fried with breadcrumbs (unbelievable!), dal, rice and two chapattis. I wish I had thought to take a photo of the thali. I will do so tomorrow.
Hema and her hubby, Ashish, kept offering me more of everything. I could not accept another mouthful. I am saving my favorite Indian dessert, gulab jamun to eat with my afternoon masala chai. Heaven is made of this!
October 19, 2010
BACK IN BALANCE
Vaibhav, Pushpa, Hema, Laksh, Ashish |
A last I am sleeping soundly and am feeling restored. I attribute my restful sleep to several factors: a) I’ve stopped taking Malarone, (anti malaria tablets that disturb sleep patterns and cause vivid dreams; b) It is wonderful to not only be warmly embraced by the Sharma family, but also to witness their daily life and way of being; and c) Last but not least, I have easy access to the internet! (It’s been functioning perfectly since Monday proving the theory correct that the server gets overloaded on the weekends.)
Jagdish even commented that I seem so much happier today. I am.
I’ve enjoyed being able to finally post all my blogs even though it’s a bit tricky to align the photos in a manner that is more pleasing to the eye. Also, I cannot get rid of the white borders around the photos, which only appear once I’ve posted the blog. Unfortunately, although the size and placement of the photos can be adjusted, there is no tab to edit them. If anyone has a suggestion as to how I may be able to eliminate the borders, please advise.
This morning after breakfast, Jagdish wanted to show me more of his beloved Udaipur. He is justly proud of his city. In spite of the pollution in the lakes and the slow deterioration of its glorious ancient monuments and buildings, the city has an aura of majesty and beauty. It is easy to imagine it’s magnificence when it was first established and surrounded by dense forests.
Saraswati Bhawan Library, Sajjan Niwas Gardens |
We tootled off again on Jagdish's scooter. Our first stop was the Manikya Lal Verma Park where we took a cable car which gave us a great view of the city and its lakes.
Gardeners attending roses |
Royal Cenotaphs, Ahar |
The highlight for me on today’s tour was our visit to the Royal Cenotaphs in Ahar, which is a few kilometers out of the city’s environs. I found the arrangement of the 250 cenotaphs built over a period of 350 years to be quite wondrous. Apparently, this plot of land is still privately owned by a Maharahan!
Our tour finished with a long drive to Tigger Lake through farmlands. Lush it is not. There were large tracts of greenery dotted about and a few farms had orchards of fruitless trees but the landscape appeared arid in many places. The monsoon rains over the last ten years were insufficient to replenish the water tables. And this year’s rains, although heavy were not enough to bring the dried up rivers back to life. Cattle and goats scrabble on the parched riverbeds for the few hardy plants that have survived amidst the usual flotsam and jetsam left behind when the rivers stopped flowing.
Besides some unidentifiable barren fruit trees, there were no crops to be seen. I did see a tiny patch of land being tilled by a buffalo pulling a plough through soil, that from a distance looked dry and powdery.
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Tigger Lake |
October 18, 2010
EXPERIENCING UDAIPUR IN DEPTH
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L-R, Laksh, Vaibhav, Jagdish on way to fireworks |
Last night’s fireworks was quite an event. We arrived at the stadium a tad early, as sunset was at least an hour away. Most of the stands were pretty empty. But in consideration of the early comers, there was a lively folk dance performance on a very small stage. We were simultaneously subjected to a recitation of the legend of Rama in Mewari, the language of Udaipur, blaring out of the speakers. It’s a pity I don’t understand Mewari because I am sure I would have enjoyed hearing the legend, as I no longer remember it too well.
As the stands gradually began to fill, I assume because people had finished work, a parade started forming at one of the entrances. There was much waving of arms to motion them to begin to move. It took a while for the floats to sort themselves out and get into line. White horses with red and gold trimmings paraded past first. Some were without riders others had riders dressed in red and gold costumes. The lead horse was led by hand and pranced gracefully in front of us.
The horses were followed by a very motley parade of raggedy floats drawn by camels and small battered trucks and camels. No prizes here but the kids loved them. Some of the people on the floats were deep in conversation with each other and seemed oblivious of their viewing public. One of the floats carried Rama. It was hard to discern the significance of any of the other floats but am sure they all had to do something with the events in Rama’s life.
The parade passed us by twice and then impatient for sunset, the powers that be decided to start the fireworks. I was sure the horses would be startled by the noise but they seemed totally unperturbed. Obviously, they’re veterans of parades past.
I could not help but think the way the fireworks were being conducted would have been outlawed in the USA. Nary a fire engine, an ambulance or a First Aid station were in sight. (I'm beginning to think we err too much on the side of caution about many things.) The firecrackers were lit very close to the stands. We were constantly showered with dead insects that must’ve either been killed by the sparks or the debris. Or, perhaps the sound waves upset their finely tuned nervous systems and sent them spinning to their deaths.
Some of the fireworks burst into flames on the ground. . I was amazed that the people who were lighting the fireworks did not get burned. Mind you they were fleet of foot.
Chris and Ursula, a couple from New Zealand, also staying in Bhanwar Vilas, and I could not stop smiling. We were very happy that Jagdish had thought to invite us to experience this annual cultural event. The greatest delight for me was watching the children’s reactions to the spectacle. The grand finale was the burning of effigies of Ramanava and his cohorts as well as the symbol of Sri Lanka as Ramanava was from Lanka, as it was called eons ago.
Many of the spectators greeted us warmly as they went by. One woman who had caught my eye several times in the stands below us eventually came up to me with her children in tow. She shook my hand, smiled broadly and said, “Welcome to India.” Her children shook my hand as well.
This happens frequently wherever I go, as it does to other Westerners too. This kind of spontaneous friendliness towards us from local residents absolutely lifts my spirits and mitigates all the irritations and difficulties of travelling in their beloved Motherland.
Staying in the guesthouse with Jagdish and his family has made a significant difference to my state of mind. Their incredible warmth and graciousness, so unexpected, has touched me deeply.
This afternoon, Jagdish took me on a tour of places a little off the beaten track. The tour included a visit to Bharitiya Lok Kala Mandal, the Museum of Folk Art, where we saw a puppet show, Lake Fateh Sagar, a large lake north of Lake Pichola, and an ornamented pleasure garden, Sahelion ki Bari, aka the Garden of the Maids of Honor which has a charming pond with four elephants spouting water. Even though sadly neglected, it has a melancholic beauty.
Garden of the Maids of Honor |
Riding pillion on a scooter or a motorbike is my favorite way to see any city, town or village!
Dear Valerie, dear dear Miss V!
ReplyDeleteI love reading these posts of your journeys to ecstasies draped in variant "drags" of joy and suffering in and from the surprise of the "ancient culture", Lord Indra's gift, still vibrant, driven and impersonal. But it is all not meant to be taken personally! which is hard not to do...and yet...one must try and keep a wet sense of humor, not dry or you shall cry much and decry existence in all its crusty suchness...
Dear one, you are experiencing Grace! Grace, I tell you, Profane and Sacred! the veritable heirophanies which Mircea Eliade writes of, those "places/spaces", internal/external, human and "other-wise", where the Sacred conjoins with the Profane which manifests That ("tat tvam asi) which is greater than eye or thigh...K. from Madras here in Manhattan is a "manifest grace" of all three, eye, thigh, and the "God Eye"-Bindu of understanding and celebration of all the Leela dance of revelations in material forms (the agonies and the ecstasies and all between)...
When I stand before Saint Peter (the old coot) and he asks me what allows me entrance into and through the pearly gates I shall only offer him my broken heart and gratitude for such suffering of revelations of all kinds kindling ironic praise which even God or gods are not aware of until I discover them from the inside out and offer these to Him/Them/Her...
"Mother Maya," I'll say, "these are realer than real and are not at all falsities or illusions because they are and have been humanly felt and are allusion most true and truing...I bring you the pageant which Valerie has witnessed in the fireworks and the children's faces, I bring you her spice bowl revelations from heart-warmed Indian kitchens, their tastes and aromas, and I offer you make up for your stars in need, yes, of a makeover making their smiles permanent, knowing - not ignorant - slants of bliss, veritable Mona Lisa hints in the made-over stars now glinting their distilled-by-distances-vast blessings, impatiently awaiting (if we could only see them squirm in anticipation!) our experiences, for until all/us/we came along, they - both stars and gods - were just guessing...
I hope I'll gain entrance but if not I'll gladly take the return ticket back to material existence (bringing beloved Marianne and thee with!) so I may suffer all the more such beauty, such revelation within the heart-breaking universe.
For being here, incarnate, methinks so far, is the greatest Bardo of all.
Embrace Mother India for me. And light some incense to Lord Ganesha for me, too...I do so daily here which endlessly fascinates the Christian squirrels from St. Marks Church down the street...they hover in my apartment window, curious paws pressing against the glass, watch the ritual flame spark and flare, the smoke slithering smoke (O Nagas!), my caress of Ganesha's trunk and belly. Such revelations even to squirrels! I shall bring them, too, back with me upon my return on the "Bardo Express", most honored guests!
Love you muchly,
Warren
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ReplyDeletePulled this Osho Tarot card this a.m. and thought of you!
ReplyDeleteADVENTURE :
When we are truly in a spirit of adventure, we are moving just like this child. Full of trust, out of the darkness of the forest into the rainbow of the light, we go step by step, drawn by our sense of wonder into the unknown.
Adventure really has nothing to do with plans and maps and programs and organization. The Page of Rainbows represents a quality that can come to us anywhere - at home or in the office, in the wilderness or in the city, in a creative project or in our relationships with others. Whenever we move into the new and unknown with the trusting spirit of a child, innocent and open and vulnerable, even the smallest things of life can become the greatest adventures.