REGAINING BALANCE IN UDAIPUR

October 20, 2010

This morning went to Govinda Cafe as the owner the other day had bragged to me that he made excellent cappuccino. I was skeptical but it was pretty good. He has a Ciambelli espresso machine and uses Lavazza coffee. I was impressed. It's the first cup of coffee I've had since my arrival in India. 

Sitting next to me was a table crammed full of 16 and 17 year olds who had just finished school for the day.They attend MMPS, Mahrana Mewar Public School (in reality a private school) in the City Palace complex. They're all in 11th grade. Three of them, who all want to be doctors, are in the science stream, the rest  are in the commerce stream with the exception of one girl who is studying arts. They start at 7a.m. and finish at 11 a.m. and attend coaching centers for private tutoring. No doubt these kids are high achievers. 

As soon as I pulled out my MacBook, Kanul, who was sitting next to me, asked how much I paid for it. This happens all the time. He then asked if he could "handle" it!  And like everyone I meet, they wanted to know where I was from, what I do, how long I'm traveling and why I'm traveling alone. 

They were joshing each other mercilessly. It was fun to see the dynamic among them.  Their high energy was contagious. They happily agreed to have their photo taken and had no problem at all about me posting it on my blog!

Had another stunningly delectable thali for lunch today, this time prepared by Hema, Jagdish and Pushpa’s daughter-in-law. I don’t think I’d find a more superbly prepared and flavorful meal in a five-star restaurant! The food here is so wonderful and the family's delight in my delight makes it difficult to even consider moving on.

Again was curious about the spices used. Hema immediately brought out her masala spice tray with little stainless cups filled with chili, cumin, coriander, tumeric, mustard seed, fennel, anise and fenugreek. She used all these spices in various combinations for today’s thali that included paneer (Indian cheese) with a tomato sauce, potato with a small dried bean that I did not recognize, fenugreek that was boiled and ground into a paste and fried with breadcrumbs (unbelievable!), dal, rice and two chapattis. I wish I had thought to take a photo of the thali. I will do so tomorrow.

Hema and her hubby, Ashish, kept offering me more of everything. I could not accept another mouthful. I am saving my favorite Indian dessert, gulab jamun to eat with my afternoon masala chai. Heaven is made of this! 

October 19, 2010

BACK IN BALANCE

Vaibhav, Pushpa, Hema, Laksh, Ashish

A last I am sleeping soundly and am feeling restored. I attribute my restful sleep to several factors: a) I’ve stopped taking Malarone, (anti malaria tablets that disturb sleep patterns and cause vivid dreams; b) It is wonderful to not only be warmly embraced by the Sharma family, but also to witness their daily life and way of being; and c) Last but not least, I have easy access to the internet! (It’s been functioning perfectly since Monday proving the theory correct that the server gets overloaded on the weekends.)

Jagdish even commented that I seem so much happier today. I am.

I’ve enjoyed being able to finally post all my blogs even though it’s a bit tricky to align the photos in a manner that is more pleasing to the eye. Also, I cannot get rid of the white borders around the photos, which only appear once I’ve posted the blog. Unfortunately, although the size and placement of the photos can be adjusted, there is no tab to edit them. If anyone has a suggestion as to how I may be able to eliminate the borders, please advise.

This morning after breakfast, Jagdish wanted to show me more of his beloved Udaipur. He is justly proud of his city. In spite of the pollution in the lakes and the slow deterioration of its glorious ancient monuments and buildings, the city has an aura of majesty and beauty. It is easy to imagine it’s magnificence when it was first established and surrounded by dense forests. 

Saraswati Bhawan Library,
 Sajjan Niwas Gardens

We tootled off again on Jagdish's scooter. Our first stop was the Manikya Lal Verma Park where we took a cable car which gave us a great view of the city and its lakes.

Gardeners attending roses

That was followed by a stroll through the lovely Sajjan Niwas Gardens where the denizens of the city go for their morning constitutional. It is also home to an elegant building that was erected to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and now houses the Saraswati Bhawan Library. Alongside it is the somewhat forlorn Gulab Bagh or Rose Garden. (Now I know that Gulab means rose and that my favorite Indian desert, gulab jamun, is made with rose water!)

Royal Cenotaphs, Ahar

The highlight for me on today’s tour was our visit to the Royal Cenotaphs in Ahar, which is a few kilometers out of the city’s environs. I found the arrangement of the 250 cenotaphs built over a period of 350 years to be quite wondrous. Apparently, this plot of land is still privately owned by a Maharahan!

Our tour finished with a long drive to Tigger Lake through farmlands. Lush it is not.  There were large tracts of greenery dotted about and a few farms had orchards of fruitless trees but the landscape appeared arid in many places. The monsoon rains over the last ten years were insufficient to replenish the water tables. And this year’s rains, although heavy were not enough to bring the dried up rivers back to life. Cattle and goats scrabble on the parched riverbeds for the few hardy plants that have survived amidst the usual flotsam and jetsam left behind when the rivers stopped flowing.

Besides some unidentifiable barren fruit trees, there were no crops to be seen. I did see a tiny patch of land being tilled by a buffalo pulling a plough through soil, that from a distance looked dry and powdery.

Tigger Lake

October 18, 2010

EXPERIENCING UDAIPUR IN DEPTH

L-R, Laksh, Vaibhav, Jagdish
on way to fireworks

Last night’s fireworks was quite an event. We arrived at the stadium a tad early, as sunset was at least an hour away. Most of the stands were pretty empty. But in consideration of the early comers, there was a lively folk dance performance on a very small stage.  We were simultaneously subjected to a recitation of the legend of Rama in Mewari, the language of Udaipur, blaring out of the speakers. It’s a pity I don’t understand Mewari because I am sure I would have enjoyed hearing the legend, as I no longer remember it too well.

As the stands gradually began to fill, I assume because people had finished work, a parade started forming at one of the entrances. There was much waving of arms to motion them to begin to move. It took a while for the floats to sort themselves out and get into line. White horses with red and gold trimmings paraded past first. Some were without riders others had riders dressed in red and gold costumes. The lead horse was led by hand and pranced gracefully in front of us.

The horses were followed by a very motley parade of raggedy floats drawn by camels and small battered trucks and camels. No prizes here but the kids loved them. Some of the people on the floats were deep in conversation with each other and seemed oblivious of their viewing public. One of the floats carried Rama. It was hard to discern the significance of any of the other floats but am sure they all had to do something with the events in Rama’s life.

The parade passed us by twice and then impatient for sunset, the powers that be decided to start the fireworks. I was sure the horses would be startled by the noise but they seemed totally unperturbed. Obviously, they’re veterans of parades past.

I could not help but think the way the fireworks were being conducted would have been outlawed in the USA. Nary a fire engine, an ambulance or a First Aid station were in sight. (I'm beginning to think we err too much on the side of caution about many things.) The firecrackers were lit very close to the stands. We were constantly showered with dead insects that must’ve either been killed by the sparks or the debris. Or, perhaps the sound waves upset their finely tuned nervous systems and sent them spinning to their deaths.  

Some of the fireworks burst into flames on the ground. . I was amazed that the people who were lighting the fireworks did not get burned. Mind you they were fleet of foot.

Chris and Ursula, a couple from New Zealand, also staying in Bhanwar Vilas, and I could not stop smiling. We were very happy that Jagdish had thought to invite us to experience this annual cultural event. The greatest delight for me was watching the children’s reactions to the spectacle. The grand finale was the burning of effigies of Ramanava and his cohorts as well as the symbol of Sri Lanka as Ramanava was from Lanka, as it was called eons ago.

Many of the spectators greeted us warmly as they went by. One woman who had caught my eye several times in the stands below us eventually came up to me with her children in tow. She shook my hand, smiled broadly and said, “Welcome to India.” Her children shook my hand as well. 

This happens frequently wherever I go, as it does to other Westerners too. This kind of spontaneous friendliness towards us from local residents absolutely lifts my spirits and mitigates all the irritations and difficulties of travelling in their beloved Motherland.

Staying in the guesthouse with Jagdish and his family has made a significant difference to my state of mind. Their incredible warmth and graciousness, so unexpected, has touched me deeply.


This afternoon, Jagdish took me on a tour of places a little off the beaten track. The tour included a visit to Bharitiya Lok Kala Mandal, the Museum of Folk Art, where we saw a puppet show, Lake Fateh Sagar, a large lake north of Lake Pichola, and an ornamented pleasure garden, Sahelion ki Bari, aka the Garden of the Maids of Honor which has a charming pond with four elephants spouting water. Even though sadly neglected, it has a melancholic beauty.

Garden of the Maids of Honor

 Riding pillion on a scooter or a motorbike is my favorite way to see any city, town or village!