NOVEMBER 5, 2010
AUROVILLE
A couple of days rest in the Quiet Hotel, (it is indeed quiet) in Auroville has given me time to cool my heels and mull over my travels since leaving Udaipur and to figure out what happened to make them so difficult. It is said by other travelers that your experiences in India reflect what you are projecting. This is one of those statements that can make one roll one’s eyes, but on reflection I believe there is some truth to it.
I started off on a bad foot and did not take time out between journeys to recover from the one before. This led to my making hasty decisions, being in a constant state of exhaustion and easily irritated. And feeling totally worn down.
I am not sure I want to continue my travels. India is much harder to travel in than Vietnam, Cambodia, Lao and Thailand. There have been rough patches in all of those places, all to be expected, but on the whole, even when language was a barrier, people tried to help or were at least civil and quite often kind. Or the journey was worth the effort when the destination was reached because of some small moment of delight and beauty-whether it was a personal interaction with someone or the sight of something that touched or moved me in some way.
During this journey, nothing occurred to redeem the harshness of the experience. Perhaps it was the constant sight of relentless poverty and squalor and being in the midst of people daily whose faces and bodies reflected the harshness of their lives, just overwhelmed me.
The other big issue is being able to get clear information ahead of time about busses, their routes and their schedules. Mind you, the people who use the busses know the routes and schedules like the back of their hand. The only way to find out anything is to go to the bus station itself and ask around until one hits the jackpot. So planning a bus trip is not feasible. It’s hard to go with the flow though when one is lugging a suitcase and feeling tired and hungry. No wonder then this particular journey was so hard as my only option were the busses.
Being constantly lied to has been difficult to deal with as well. My only conclusion is that no one wants to tell you something is not possible. So some story is fabricated as to why it cannot be done. Or, if it can be done and the person being queried has something to be gained by not giving you all the possible options, then you will be told your only option is to deal with them or, a friend of theirs, from whom they’ll get a commission.
Added to all this, my stomach has turned and I can no longer eat Indian food. This is one of the reasons I came to Auroville. Even though Pondicherry, because of its residual French influence, was less squalid, relatively easy to walk around and easier on the eye, it was still too busy for my battered mind and body.
I also came here because I’d been told that the quality of the ingredients used in Western food was better. Since my tummy has become so delicate, it is now dictating my movements.
Auroville, had intrigued me anyway. The “City of Dawn,” established in 1965 (I think) is an International Zone, independent of India. It was created as a living experiment that would allow people of all nations to live harmoniously. Pursuing a spiritual life and practicing meditation, in principle, are the focus of those who choose to live here.
If one stays a week or longer, one has to deposit a certain amount of money in the Town Hall. A number is assigned and all shopping is then done with the identifying number. No money is exchanged. Whatever one purchases is subtracted from the banked money. If one stays less time, one can only pay cash but that means there are some restaurants that cannot be patronized.
It’s an odd place because it has what seems to be an equal number of Indian and International inhabitants. Lots of young folks with dreadlocks and without, and aging hippies of all nationalities. And just regular folk. There is the usual squalor in the settlements on the perimeter of its circular conformation. The way of doing business is Indian in style, but perhaps they are used to cohabiting with Westerners, they’re less grasping and are even civil. The pace is less frenetic too. And I was able to get around on a moped! Oh joy! Oh rapture!
Thanks to Palu! The day watchman at Quiet. I had tried to rent a moped, even a bicycle from the rental places, but none were to be had because of Diwali. I asked one of the receptionists at Quiet if she knew of anyone who had one to rent. “Speak to Palu,” was her instant reply. “He always manages to find whatever our guests need.”
Palu was sitting in his usual spot on a white plastic chair under the shade of a tree from where he monitors the big gates. He has the loveliest smile and wears a white shawl over his shoulders to mask the stub on his shoulder. He lost his arm when he was 12 in a bus accident. (Am I surprised?) I love watching him walk as it is a fluid, dignified lope. He is gentle-natured and friendly.
I asked Palu if he knew of anyone who had a moped or a bike they’d be willing to rent. He immediately called a friend who apparently wanted to charge me an exorbitant price and Palu, protectively, was not having any of it. He then suggested I use his bicycle until 4 p.m. when he knocked off. I was stunned by his offer. “Are you sure?” “No problem,” was his reply.
I went to my room to get my backpack and laptop as I had been told of a place where wifi was available. (The guesthouse’s location precludes it from having access to wifi. It’s telephone lines and the office’s Internet connections are both highly unreliable.) By the time I got back to Palu, a moped was waiting for me. It belonged to a friend of his down the road from Quiet, who also ran a taxi service.
I’m so cross with myself that I did not take a photo of it. A rather ancient one but it worked perfectly fine! I was so touched that Palu had gone the extra mile for me.
It was such a relief to be on a moped and have the freedom to move about without having to rely on auto rickshaws or taxis. The hotel was seven kilometers out of Auroville so each time I needed to go somewhere I had had to wait a long time for a taxi.
I went to Fresh Farm, a French-styled deli/grocery store and bought myself a slice of quiche for lunch and walnut pie for tea/dinner. (Quiet only serves vegetarian Indian food for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is quasi/Western, no eggs of course, but generous portions of fruit salad, homemade breads and curd with all the condiments.) I then tootled off to Aurolec, a complex of buildings that has an indoor/outdoor restaurant (which was closed because of Diwali) but where I could at least sit under the trees and access wifi. At last! But alas, too briefly.
I had many emails to download as I had not had access for so long. I only managed to answer a few as it soon threatened to rain and I had to make a dash for it back to Quiet before it came down in torrents. Monsoon season is just coming to a close in Tamil Nadu.
Shortly after my arrival in Auroville, I’d made an appointment for what is called a “concentration,” as opposed to a silent meditation, in Matrimandir, Auroville’s signature gold globe-shaped meditation room. The meditation is called a concentration because Sri Aurobindo did not want any dogma or doctrine attached to the globe or Auroville.
Prior to being allowed to enter, one has to view a video that explains the history of the concept of Auroville, how it eventually came to fruition and it’s inauguration that was attended by UN delegates as well as dignitaries from all over the world. There is also a detailed account of the construction of the globe.
We had a very good guide who explained the protocol to my group of about 30 people, most of whom were Indian. Protocols are stringent to ensure silence and as little disturbance as possible once in the inner sanctum. The time limit is fifteen minutes for the first concentration. After that, an appointment can be made for 45 minutes during particular time slots. Many Aurovillians go there everyday. There are several meditation rooms within the global complex.
The prep is justified. Once we entered and seated ourselves in the chamber, we were enveloped by the most exquisitely profound silence. I easily concentrated on the silence. The fifteen minutes went by far too rapidly. I could have sat there for much longer. Lights flicked on and off twice to alert us that time was up.
I walked around the “Peace” grounds surrounding the Matrimandir in quiet bliss. I felt so calm and energized for the remainder of the day. Such a pity it is closed today, because of Diwali and that I’m leaving tomorrow, as would have liked to experience a longer concentration.
Quiet, although extremely expensive for me, has been a good choice. The reception staff in particular are all friendly and charming. My room is very comfortable and serviced every day. I have a little balcony that overlooks the large garden and a lotus pond. In the distance, behind the thick hedge that keeps the property private, the sea is visible. Unfortunately, there is hardly any beach left since being eroded by the Tsunami, so one cannot walk along it.
It’s wonderful to fall asleep and wake up to the sound of the sea. I do love the sea and wish I could live near it. My time here has been very pleasant and relaxing.
NOVEMBER 6, 2010
Have spent most of the afternoon touring Auroville on the moped. I also spent quite a bit of time looking for some gifts for my cousins and their children who live in Ooty, (my next destination), whom I’ve never met. Only communicated with via email and over the phone.
I’d fully intended to write emails and post my blog but that plan went awry as when I stopped for lunch at a café, I met a very interesting Iranian woman, who lives in Germany and who had come here to learn about a Bio-Resonance machine. She’s a psychologist. She’s been here for a couple of months already.
Naturally, the ups and downs of traveling in India was one of the many topics we discussed. It is always reassuring to know that other people have shared similar experiences in India and have the same ambivalence towards India as I do. What we both concluded is that traveling is nonetheless fascinating and pushes oneself right up against oneself. A good thing. As the only thing to do is to stretch.
I also have to keep reminding myself that I am a visitor to this country and the reason I am travelling in it is to be aware of the cultural differences and to find a way to integrate them into my way Western way of thinking. Not easy as one is constantly brought up against one’s ingrained value system and beliefs. It surprised me how stuck I am and had no conception how hard it would be to get my head around the differences! I continue to struggle with this.
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